Nairobi, Safaris, & Babies

We have a new group of Swedish volunteers in Mutomo.  We have two gynecologists, Jenny and Marianne, and Per, my dentist friend who was here in Mutomo back in October.  We’ve all spent a lot of evenings together eating, watching movies, and just sitting outside visiting beneath the stars.  It’s been nice having neighbors next door once again.  

 

Me with Sr. Mary, Anita, Per, Marianne, Sr. Esther, & Jenny

After working for over 3 months in Mutomo without taking time off, I finally took a welcomed 5-day vacation to Nairobi.  The journey there was a bit long: about 4 hours (2 on dirt road, 2 on paved).  I was lucky enough to hitch a ride with some of the hospital board members who were headed to Nairobi.  We also had 3 live chickens along for the trip.  They spent their last few hours of life clucking away in a cardboard box in the back of the car. 

Nairobi felt like a completely different world from Mutomo.  It’s amazing that the two places are within the same country.  The gap between wealth and poverty is striking.  Also striking was the diversity present in Nairobi.  Kenya actually has a sizable population of Indians, as well as whites and Asians.  How strange to be able to walk around in public and not be stared at for being the only white person in town.

In Nairobi I stayed with a friend, Joe, who I met in Mutomo back in October.  Joe is from Ireland, but has recently taken a job as the medical director at The Mater Hospital in Nairobi, one of the leading private hospitals in the country.  On Sunday morning he treated me to a tour of his hospital.  It was a shocking experience to see such a modern facility after working so long in Mutomo.  The hospital is equipped with an ICU, cath lab, emergency department, multiple surgical theaters, CT scan, and even a dialysis center.  I was thrilled just to see that they had hand sanitizer containers in the corridors. 

After our hospital visit, Joe took me to a local Nakumatt (like an African version of Walmart) for groceries.  This experience proved even more overwhelming for me than our trip to the hospital.  I’m not used to seeing such abundance.  The scene was so foreign for me that I couldn’t stop laughing.  What a sight to see aisles filled with fresh produce, cheeses, deli meats, and fresh bakery bread.  That night we feasted on chicken stir fry, fresh salad (which I hadn’t had since arriving in Kenya), orange juice (also a luxury), and ICE CREAM!  On Sunday afternoon I sat reading a book on the apartment balcony and watching the kids playing on skateboards below.  I couldn’t stop staring; seeing kids so well-fed, well-clothed, with shoes and toys is not something you experience too much in Mutomo.

In Mutomo I am used to rationing water.  Although I treated myself to long, hot showers each day during my visit, I still cringed whenever I saw Joe leaving the sink running to wash dishes.  I also found myself forgetting to flush the toilet after each use (a habit I’ve picked up in Mutomo).  Despite the reverse culture shock, it was a real treat having delicious food, hot showers, and good company; Mutomo has taught me to appreciate all three.

At the elephant orphanage.

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The next day I met up with another American CMMB volunteer, Breanna, who is also working in Kenya.  The two of us met back in September for orientation in New Jersey, and decided a reunion in Nairobi would be fun.  It was certainly nice to spend time with another American.  Also with us was an African friend of Breanna’s, Alice, who lives in Nairobi and was nice enough to guide us through the city for three days.

During our time in Nairobi, we visited an elephant orphanage where baby elephants are rescued and cared for until they can be reintroduced into the wild.  We also visited Bomas of Kenya Museum (a cultural museum showcasing traditional Kenyan housing and various dance performances), a Massai craft market, and Carnivore restaurant.  I’ve heard that this restaurant has been rated as one of the top 50 in the world.  Basically, servers walk around the restaurant with giant skewers of different meats.  They continuously visit your table, serving you until you lower the flag that sits on your table, indicating that you’ve had enough.  I ate enough meat for a month, including beef, pork, chicken, lamb, turkey, sausages, and ribs.  Besides these typical meats, there were a number of exotic meats, including crocodile, ostrich meatballs, and ox testicle.  This feast ended with a slice of cheesecake!  For one night, I felt as if I was eating like a king.

Ready to eat at Carnivore!

MEAT!

Breanna and the turkey.

The following day we made a visit to Nairobi National Park for a short day-safari.  It was a fun trip, but strange to see a safari park in the middle of a city with skyscrapers in the background.  In the evening we visited a nearby shopping mall.  After a fantastic dinner of two large pizzas and frozen yogurt, we made a visit to another Nakumatt.  I know it sounds ridiculous, but this was one of the highlights of my trip.  With wide-eyed excitement, I ran up and down every aisle, stocking up on supplies (mostly food) to take back to Mutomo.  My purchases included a stack of chocolate bars, and couple blocks of cheese, apples, Nutella, trash bags, sandwich bags, shampoo, lentils, two large jars of peanut butter, etc.  I was amazed to find that a jar of Skippy brand peanut butter cost over $12!  I had to settle for a cheaper brand.  Dinner the next evening was a bit more exotic.  Alice took us to eat at a restaurant that served Rwandese/Burundese food.  We had grilled cow liver and intestines.  The flavor wasn't so bad, but the fatty texture made it a bit hard to get down... I'll stick with pizza.

Breanna and I with a group of Massai at Nairobi National Park.

Ostrich at Nairobi Park... I was eating this for dinner the night before.

Warthogs

Two large pizzas!

...and dessert!

Kenyans always like to remind me that Obama's family comes from Kenya.

For the past few months I’ve been mostly without television.  Usually I hate watching the news at home in the U.S., but while in Nairobi I was excited to find two American news stations.  I happened to wake up one morning just in time to catch a replay of President Obama’s State of the Union address.  Being so far from home has really made me appreciate our country more than ever before.  Watching that speech at the Capitol filled me with such a great sense of pride in being an American.

Elephant at Tsavo East

I finally returned back to Mutomo, but was off again two days later for yet another safari trip.  Back in November I took a trip to Tsavo West National Park.  This past weekend I took yet another safari trip, this time to Tsavo East National Park with the two Swedish doctors.  The hotel accommodations were fantastic.  In addition to more hot showers, we were treated to buffet for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and a swimming pool overlooking the park below.  Just below the hotel were two water holes visited by a steady stream of animals seeking water.  In the evening, a herd of buffalo showed up and took a rest while we watched them from our dinner table.

When we first checked into our hotel we were told to keep our windows shut when not in the room to prevent unwanted visits from the baboons.  We did shut our windows, but apparently I forgot to lock them.  After touring the park for several hours, we returned to the hotel to find that the windows were open, our bag of potato chips had been scattered about the room, and a box of cookies had been stolen!

I enjoyed this park much more than the one in Nairobi (it’s a bit unnatural to see a giraffe walking against a backdrop of buildings and an airport).  I was thrilled that we were able to see a large number of elephants, in addition to zebras, impala, ostriches, warthogs, and the buffalo… but I still haven’t spotted a lion in Kenya.

A huge cloud of birds flying through the park.

I guess I should talk a little bit about work (I don’t just go on safaris every week). Every Thursday at the hospital the staff gather for a one hour lecture on various health topics as part of their continuing education.  I was asked to deliver one of these lectures last month and chose to speak on sepsis and septic shock.  It was an appropriate subject since so many of our patients die of sepsis, which can often be identified much earlier than is happening.  Most of the audience seemed engaged in the topic, and I've even noticed some change in the practice of the doctors since.  I'm hoping I may get the chance to speak a couple more times throughout the year.

My first three months in Mutomo were spent working on the medical-surgical ward.  I just recently rotated and am now working on the maternity ward.  I remember back in nursing school that I swore I would never work in maternity, and yet here I am!  I wouldn’t ever choose it as a career, but I’m actually really excited to be experiencing such a different field of nursing from what I’m accustomed to.  In my first two days on the ward, I’ve seen four deliveries.  Sadly, one of those was a premature infant at around 24 weeks who only lived about an hour after delivery.  The mother had preterm, premature rupture of membranes several days ago and went into labor today.  The other three deliveries were very healthy. 

So far I’m not too much help around the ward.  I have a lot to learn about maternity nursing, but I’m finding that a lot of what I learned in school is quickly coming back to memory.  They say that pretty soon I’ll be doing deliveries on my own!  I’d forgotten how messy childbirth can be.  It’s not a clean and simple process like in the movies where a woman pushes twice and you have a clean baby appear.  In reality it’s a chaotic mix of blood, sweat, stool, urine, placentas, and amniotic fluid, with a good deal of screaming to go along with it.  There are no epidurals here, so the women just bear with the pain.  They are amazingly resilient.  They rarely complain about the pain.  I have no idea what childbirth feels like, but I think I would be screaming a lot louder if our places were reversed.  Today I stayed a couple hours late after work to observe another delivery.  The mother pushed for over an hour with little progress.  Finally Dr. Jenny decided to do an episiotomy and vacuum extraction.  This too was a messy procedure, and I left work with small traces of amniotic fluid on my scrubs. 

I have a lot to learn on this new ward.  Besides studying ecclampsia, stages of labor, maternal-fetal anatomy, and assessment of cervical dilation (yes I’ve been doing that too), I’m still studying Kiswahili.  There’s a new word I’ll be using a lot more now: skuma! (push!).